Quality Lawns Inc.

PO Box 18470 Louisville, KY 40261-0470
502-231-8555
info@qualitylawnsinc.com

Serving the Louisville Kentucky area for over 23 years!

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Quality Lawns Inc.

Today's TIP: What to do with my lawn now??

Summer-Fall 08

A great lawn is your reward!

Renovation is a simple way of transforming an unattractive landscape into something spectacular. By eliminating weeds and undesirable grasses, while introducing quality seed varieties, this cost-effective procedure provides a thick, green lawn. With proper care and maintenance, it is a lawn that will be a source of pride for many years to come.

A beautiful lawn is not only a valuable place to spend time with family and friends. It’s one of the first things people notice when they arrive to your home. Lawns need renovation just like older homes. Over the years, an established lawn can deteriorate from drought, insect damage, thatch build up, compaction, poor soil conditions or a combination of any of these factors. Renovation or seeding in the fall can be the best defense against these problems and undesired grasses
Through renovation we can replace the worn out grass in your lawn with a new stand of dense, healthy turf. By seeding improved grass varieties into what is already there, your property is improved without the inconvenience and expense of creating a whole new lawn.
HOW IT WORKS:
First… we may need to apply a herbicide to your lawn to eliminate the undesirable grasses and weeds. The product we use has no residual soil activity and will not leach into any areas adjacent to your lawn. In some situations, this application is not necessary and the actual seeding process can begin right away. Either way, we’ll be sure to let you know exactly what we’re going to do before we begin. And of course will tell you about how long the renovation process will take. If the pH of your soil is too low or too high, we can apply lime application to correct the situation. This will allow the new grass plants to better utilize the nutrients provided by fertilizer and also those that exist naturally in the soil.
Next.. we’ll us a piece of equipment specifically designed for renovating lawns to slice the soil and establish a seedbed. This process allows the seed to make direct contact with the soil s proper germination can occur. Seeding will also take place at this time. We’ll use improved, turf – type varieties chose to meet the conditions of your property. Whether your lawn receives full sun, is quite shady or offers a little bit of each, we’ll make sure the seed is right for the situation. Selecting the seed is an important part of the lawn renovation process and you can rest assured we’ll do the job right.

To encourage germination and insure a healthy start for the seedling turf, we’ll apply what is known as a starter fertilizer. This type of fertilizer is formulated specifically for newly seeded areas and contains just the right balance of nutrients for young grass plants.

Then… it will be time for the most important step of all. WATER. Your lawn renovation will be successful only if the area is properly and consistently watered for two to three weeks following seeding.

Finally… it’s just a matter of watching the grass plants emerge and the new lawn take shape. You will see continuous development and improvement over a period of about four to five months. Once the lawn is established, it is very important to maintain it correctly. Proper mowing and fertilization, along with weed and insect control are vital for a healthy lawn. It will also ensure you have a lawn as GREEN as your neighbors envy.

Call now for an estimate, space is filling up fast and the window of opportunity to renovate is limited.
 

 
         

~TREE AND SHRUB SPRAYING PROGRAM

 
 
DORMANT OIL

This is a dormant spray that must be done before active growth starts and really before any buds "swell." It is best to do this in February, but any time from December through mid March is OK. The temperature is also important – it should be between 32-70 degrees for 24 hours after spraying. This dormant oil spray is supposed to smother any eggs laid the previous season and may work on some small, soft-bodied insects as well. Our primary concern here is with the various types of scale insects, which are very difficult to control later in the year. This spray will also help some with aphids, lace bugs, and mites, ect. But these insects are fairly easily controlled with conventional insecticides. It is important with this spray to make sure you get the tops of limbs and crotches too.

Hit List: The following plants should be sprayed:

  • Azaleas Pyracantha
  • Rhododendron Mugho Pine
  • Quince Spruces- except Blue Spruce!
  • Cotoneaters Pieris Japonica
  • Burning Bush Hawthorne
  • Euonynous White Pines- up to 16 feet only
  • Oaks Crabapple

Check List: Inspect these plants before spraying. If you find problems on a few of one species, and there are a lot of that species, then spray all of them.

Also, if you know of a history of problems with scale, mite, or lace bugs, then include these plants whether any are visible or not.

  • Pines- other than White Pines and White Pines taller than 16 feet tall.
  • Junipers – all type and sizes
  • Hemlocks Tulip (Yellow) Poplar
  • Magnolias Lidens
  • Spiraea Ash
  • Honey Locust Arborvita

Special Note: DO NOT SPRAY BLUE SPRUCE OR MAPLES- DAMAGE COULD RESULT!

 

 

Late spring is when many insects get into full swing. Some of these insects are rapid breeders, and can go from a few hard to see individuals to heavy infestation in a very shot time. It is therefore important to look closely for known troublemakers (lace bugs, mites, aphids) that might be hard to see. Lace bugs and mites start early and can build up a head steam. If not checked in the early stages, they can be severe by the time of the next round.

  • Azaleas Pyracantha
  • Rhododendron Mugho Pine
  • Euonymous Spruces
  • Quince Dwarf Alberts Spruc
  • Cotoneasters Pieris Japonica
  • Boxwood Yucca
  • American Holly (Not Fosters and Shrubs White Pines- up to 16 feet tall

Check List: Inspect these plants before spraying. If you find problems on a few of one species, and there are a lot of the species, then spray all of them.

  • Crabapples – Aphids
  • Pears
  • Pines – Other that White Pines and White Pines taller than 16 feet
  • Birches – Aphids, Worms Willows
  • Sycamore – Lace Bugs Spiraea _ Aphids
  • Mountain Ash Barberry – Aphids
  • Junipers – All types & sizes Hawthorne
  • Hemlocks – Mites Arborvita – Mites
  • Plums "Snow on the Mountain" – Groutweed
  • Ash – Aphids, Lace Bugs Elm
  • Burning Bush Lindens
  • Fir Tulip Poplar – Aphids
  • Honey Locust – Aphids, Mites Kwanzan Cherry

Special Note: Be sure to hit all Azaleas.

 

 

Early summer is when many insects get into full swing. Some of these insects are rapid breeders, and can go from a few hard to see individuals to heavy infestation in a very short period of time. It is therefore important to look closely for known troublemakers (lace bugs, mites, and immature bagworms) that might be hard to see. Bagworms usually start about June 15th and Japanese Beetles around the end of June. Lace bugs and mites are always with us. In addition to the plants listed below, check any and all plants that look sparse or don't have good color or vigor. There may be something-weird going on.

Hit List: The following plants should all be sprayed:

  • Azaleas Spruce – all kinds
  • Rhododendron Pieris Japonica
  • Quince Hawthorne
  • Junipers- all types and sizes "Snow on the Mountain" – goutweed
  • Burning Bushes- mite and scale Yucca
  • Hemlocks White Pines – up to 16 feet tall
  • Cotoneasters Fir
  • Pyracantha Tulip Poplar
  • Arborvita *Purpleleaf Plum
  • Mugho Pine

Check List: Inspect these plants before spraying. If you find problems on a few of one species, and there are a lot of that species, then spray all of them. During Japanese Beetle season, spray any *'d items.

  • *Crabapples – aphids, bagworms Ash – lace bugs, aphids
  • Pears Elms
  • Willows *Boston Ivy
  • Honey Locust – Honey locust plant bugs *Kwanzan Cherry
  • Spirea – aphids Barberry – aphids
  • *Lindens Holly Shrubs - mites
  • Pines – other than White pines and white pines taller than 16 feet.
  • *Birches – aphids, Japanese beetles, bag worms
  • Honey Locust – Honey locust plant bugs

 

 

By late summer most insect problems should have surfaced and been obvious by now, and hopefully they have been successfully treated by now. If not they are probably some sorry looking plants. Some insects are prolific breeders and have very short breeding cycles. This means that If only 2 mites survived from a previous spray (1 male & 1 female), they would start laying eggs immediately and have thousands of offspring in no time at all. Meanwhile, their offspring are doing the same thing. Aphids and lace bugs also fall in this category. It won't take long for any of these to build up a sizeable population. If there has been any problem with these pests, then additional spraying on R4 is warranted – whether or not you see any live ones or not. This is probably the prime focus of R4 – to make sure any earlier problems are put to rest. On the other hand, bugs that have but one generation per year, such as bagworms, do not have this ability to regroup and come on again.

Japanese Beetles should be pretty much done with by now and are not worth worrying about. Bagworms are close to the end of their feeding cycle and will become very hard to kill. If you can't see them feeding from the top of the bag – then don't bother treating. Any Burning Bushes with signs of any mite damage should be treated.

Hit List: The following plants should all be sprayed:

  • Azaleas "Snow on the Mountain" – goutweed
  • Mugo Pine Yucca
  • Cotoneasters Burning Bush – with any history of mites
  • Pyracantha

CheckList: Inspect these plants before spraying. If you find problems on a few of the species, and there are a lot of that species, then spray all of them.

  • Crabapples – aphids Spiraea Pines
  • Burning Bush – mites Birches – aphids, leafminers Ash
  • Quince – aphids Arborvita Plums
  • Spruces – mites Fir – mites Willows
  • Junipers – all types & sizes Hemlocks – mites Lindens
  • Pieris Japanica – lace bugs Hawthorne – lace bugs
  • Tulip poplar – aphids, Tulip scale

Let Us Make Your Lawn GREEN and Weed FREE!

CALL 502-231-8555 NOW!

EMAIL

 

      
Kentucky Turfgrasss Council Member
 
Kentucky Turfgrass Council

Certified Pesticide Applicator
Quality Lawns Inc
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